There’s a New Way to Use Vitamin C For Brighter Skin

A new slew of nighttime vitamin C serums are challenging conventional wisdom—but what do the experts say?

Ask almost any dermatologist to name the most beneficial skincare ingredients and they’ll say retinol, sunscreen and vitamin C. If you ask for application tips, they’ll likely tell you to use vitamin C under your sunscreen in the morning and retinol at night. Aesthetic dermatologist Dr. Lisa Kellett, founder of DLK on Avenue, gives her patients this helpful trick to remember: “You have orange juice in the morning, so your vitamin C is in the morning.”

But in recent months, brands are flipping that script, coming out with vitamin C serums specifically formulated for before-bed use. The aim? Take advantage of the natural regeneration that occurs when you’re sleeping. “Vitamin C has always been a daytime product because it helps defend against UV,” says Heather Hickman, vice president of global education at Dermalogica. “It’s been so successful at brightening the skin and combatting signs of aging that we wanted to look into options for a nighttime product. At night, your skin goes into repair mode to fix any damage that’s been done during the day.”

The brand’s new Biolumin-C Night Restore is the company’s answer to a vitamin C serum for evening—a thick, peach-y formula that you massage on before hitting the pillow. “It makes it look like you’ve had a really good night’s sleep, even if you haven’t,” says Hickman, who recommends it for those with dullness, dehydration or signs of premature skin aging. Garnier has a budget-friendly new launch for just this purpose, too.

But is it better to use vitamin C at night? Is morning still the play? Or should it be used twice a day for the absolute best results? Here’s what we know.

What are the skincare benefits of vitamin C?

Vitamin C is far from a new ingredient, but it continues to be one of the most talked about skincare actives because it has so many benefits. First, it’s a potent antioxidant that can fend off free radicals, specifically reactive oxygen species (ROS), brought on by environmental stressors like UV light and pollution. “ROS break down your skin’s barrier,” says Hickman. “They can break down your collagen and elastin. They slow down the rate we turn over fresh skin cells, so they accelerate the rate at which we age.” That’s a big reason vitamin C is a daytime skincare staple, when protecting against sun damage and pollutants is key.

“Vitamin C is also important for the synthesis of collagen and pro-collagen,” Dr. Kellett says. Collagen is a protein that gives skin its structure and support, while pro-collagen is its precursor. Plus, vitamin C can decrease excess melanin production to curb dark spots and melasma and act as an anti-inflammatory, making it a great pick for those with acne and rosacea.

Topical vitamin C comes in a bunch of different forms, from potent L-ascorbic acid to derivatives like ascorbyl glucoside and sodium ascorbyl phosphate. “I like the active form, which is L-ascorbic acid,” says Dr. Kellett. “I’ll tell patients to look for a concentration of up to 20 per cent. But studies have shown that even five to eight percent is effective.”

From The Kit. To read the entire story please click here.